Issue #15: San Juan Islands, WA: Ocean Air & Queer Calm

WHAT YOU’LL FIND IN THIS ISSUE:

• Sea lions, eagles, and a possible whale sighting or two

• A relaxed 3–4 day itinerary from Seattle to San Juan Island

• LGBTQ+ friendly stays and low-key coastal adventures

• Quick Campfire Questions with Laurier Tiernan (from Tokyo!)

• A quick poll to tell me what you think

Secret Island Escapes With a Queer Vibe

It’s one of the most LGBTQ+ friendly pockets of the US, in the wider Washington State region that includes the famously queer Seattle.

You won’t find rainbow flags hanging from every shopfront, but you also won’t find stares, side-eyes, or awkward questions at check-in.

People are used to travellers, artists, and slightly eccentric folk who moved there to escape city life, including us queer ones.

Same-sex couples are welcome everywhere, and you’ll (hopefully) feel safe hiking, dining, or awkwardly getting in and out of your kayak (it’s harder than it looks).

Here, travel slows.
It’s quiet.
It’s the best kind of reset.

Who this is for (and who it’s not for)

Best for:

• Queer couples or small groups wanting a slow-paced nature escape

• Anyone craving ocean air, wildlife, and a lack of group tour vibes

• Travellers who like a mix of outdoorsy and artsy with a comfy bed at the end

• Those who love the idea of stargazing in hoodies

Probably not for you if:

• You need a daily bottomless brunch

• You hate ferries, fog, or the idea of being slightly damp (kinda unavoidable)

• You're allergic to quiet.

3–4 Days of Coastal Bliss (tour bus free!)

Day 1 Seattle to Friday Harbor (via Anacortes Ferry)

· Drive or bus to Anacortes (2 hours), ferry to San Juan Island

· Settle into a LGBTQ+ welcoming B&B or eco-lodge

· Stroll the harbour, grab dinner at Downriggers overlooking the water

Day 2 Wildlife + Water Adventures

· Morning: Sea kayaking tour (often includes seal sightings, maybe even orcas)

· Afternoon: Whale watching boat trip or hike to Lime Kiln Point lighthouse, totally iconic for sunset views

· Evening: Wine tasting or grab firewood and stargaze at the beach

Day 3 Choose Your Pace

· Chill: Spa day, massage, or art gallery wander in Friday Harbor

· Active: Head to nearby Orcas Island for a half-day hike at Mount Constitution (you’ll get sweeping views over the whole archipelago)

Optional Day 4 Stay Wild or Head Home

· Extend with a morning wildflower walk or coast-hugging cycle route

· Return ferry in the afternoon and drive back to Seattle in time for dinner

Before or After: A Queer Scene in Reach

If you fancy a bit more sparkle before or after your island days, Seattle delivers. Spend a night or two in Capitol Hill, packed with queer-owned cafés, bars, and bookshops.

Try:

• Unicorn for whimsical cocktails and themed nonsense

• Wildrose – one of the oldest lesbian bars in the US

• Elliott Bay Book Company – for a browse with heart and decent queer lit

Final Takeaway

If you’re craving space to breathe, chat nonsense with friends around a fire pit, or quietly fall back in love with someone over misty coastlines and shared flasks, the San Juan Islands might just be your kind of magic.

Quick Campfire Questions

This week, we’re lighting up the campfire with Tiernan (They/Them/Any), author and musician who’s been exploring queer joy in unexpected corners of the world.

In this mini-feature, they answer 5 quick questions about travel, identity, and what keeps them coming back for more. Grab a cup of something warm, and join us by the fire.

Q1. Where in the world are you right now, Tiernan?

Tokyo

Q2. What’s your go-to travel vibe? (e.g., slow & scenic, thrill-seeking)

 I tend to like places with Victorian architecture (like London, England) or somewhere I can swim with tropical fishes (like on Guam) the most, but I'm really up for most anything.

Q3. One place you’d go back to in a heartbeat, and why

London, England, because it's really the best city in the world in terms of breadth and depth of experiences available.

Q4. What’s your dream adventure, no budget, no limits?

Oh, gosh. Because I have my first poetry book coming out on August 15th, 2025, and I am also a musician - and I dig a “workation” - I would plan a world tour of book signings and concerts in my favourite cities like Montreal, London, Firenze, and other places I'd love to visit but haven't been yet!

 Q5. What’s one myth about LGBTQ+ travel you’d love to bust?

Maybe that Tokyo isn't LGBTQ-friendly because they are the last G7 country to not have legalized gay marriage. Tokyo is the safest city I have travelled in.

 Anything else you'd like to add? 

Nope! Thank you for having me!

Preorder Tiernan's first book of poetry - Fifty-Five Ways to Survive - from your favourite online retailer. https://durvile.com/books/Fiftyfive.html